Back when VHS tapes were all the rage - I broke my copy of Jurassic Park. Not really a difficult thing to do back in the day - but I literally caught the film on fire with how much I rewinded it. I would sit down in front of the TV on the floor and watch it, wide eyed, and then rush up and rewind it and do it all over again. So believe me when I say - I grew up in love with dinosaurs. If you ask my mum, she’ll tell you how she’d find me sat in a trance like state at two years old in front of the TV when everyone's favourite Purple Dinosaur would come on. She once remarked how I didn’t blink once until Barney cut off and went to commercial. And don’t even get me started on Land Before Times! Can you imagine how my heart soared with excitement when I learned that I only lived a couple hours away from the Dinosaur Capital of the world?
I’ve spent a majority of my life traipsing through Drumheller, Alberta. I practically took up residency at The Royal Tyrrell Museum. Over my almost three decades of exploration - I’ve learned that Drumheller is way more than just fossils and prehistoric mysteries - it’s a treasure trove of adventure just waiting for you to come and find it.
Nestled in the heart of Alberta’s Badlands, Drumheller beckons to the beating hearts of adventurers with its unique blend of prehistoric wonders, eerie ghost towns, and hidden gems waiting to be uncovered. Oh - and did I mention Dinosaurs?
Roar into the Past: The Dinosaurs of Drumheller
I would be remiss if I didn’t first start with the obvious. The Royal Tyrrell Museum is a must-see, housing one of the world’s most extensive collections of dinosaur fossils. Sure you’ve probably seen photos of Natural History Museums in places like London, or New York City, but this building is packed to the brim with fossils. Take your time getting lost in millennia’s past as you work your way through each exhibit. It’s honestly breathtaking to be reminded of how far we’ve come as a planet and how small we are in the grand scope of time itself. No really - you can measure yourself against an actual Dinosaur bone, it’s truly humbling. The Museum also offers free guided tours and interactive exhibits where you can cast your very own mould of a fossil to take home with you.
While the museum is a show stopper, the town itself has truly embraced its past and you’d be hard pressed to find a corner of the town that is without some sort of dinosaur friend. Right in the local recreation centre parking lot, stands my favourite dinosaur - a T Rex. In fact, he just so happens to be the world's LARGEST dinosaur. You can pay a small fee to climb inside where you will come to a pretty cool viewing platform inside the T Rex’s mouth, giving you a view over the town itself. But I promise you, Drumheller is so much more than just dinosaurs, and while you’re up in the viewing platform you’ll start to see a different side of this amazing Albertan town
The Dinosaur Trail: A Drive Through Time
Who’s up for a prehistoric road trip? The Dinosaur Trail is an awesome way to get out and explore more of this unique and historically rich landscape. There are TWO trails, the North and South dinosaur trail that both flank the Red Deer River, and depending on the time you visit you might just be lucky enough to connect them using the Bleriot Ferry. The Bleriot Ferry alone is a must see - as it’s one of Alberta’s last remaining cable ferries and was constructed back in 1913. Every time I do this drive, I find more incredible places to stop, but my favourites along the way are Horsethief Canyon and the Little Church.
FUN FACT: Fun fact, while this church was originally built by Trygve Seland back in 1958, the sign that now stands outside inviting all to come in was reconstructed by inmates of the Drumheller Institution in 1991.
Beyond the Bones: Hidden Adventures and Mysteries of the Badlands
I made you a promise that Drumheller was more than just some old bones, and I tend to keep my promises. From Barney’s Adventure Park to the Star Mine Suspension Bridge, there is sure to be an activity that fits everyone in your travelling party. A popular must see attraction is the nearby Atlas Coal mine. Built back in 1936, it is responsible for a lot of the areas folklore and modern history. Step back in time with a guided tour of one of Canada’s last remaining wooden coal tipples, or for those less concerned with confined spaces, even venture down into a coal mine tunnel.
When the coal mining industry went bust, it left a lot of the area and surrounding towns to ruin. One town in particular is still sat, frozen in time. Once a thriving community, Rowley is now a living museum of Alberta’s past, with its well-preserved buildings offering a glimpse into a bygone era. Like a scene from a ghost hunters tv show, when you drive into “town” you can’t help but feel a chill run up your spine. Where did everyone go? What was life like back when the train cars would belt through town, and the workers would come and go to the grain elevators whistling while they worked. How does a town just…stop being a town? Take a quick walk down mainstreet and peak into the perfectly preserved windows. I’m not saying you’ll see more than some dust covered antiques, but I’m also not saying you won’t. The town’s original grain elevators, train station, and general store stand as silent sentinels, guarding the secrets of a time when the railways were the lifeblood of the region. Rowley may be quiet now, but it’s a must-visit for anyone intrigued by ghost towns and the stories they hold.
And if ghosts are your thing - buckle up - because I’ve got you covered...
A Taste of the Paranormal: Haunted Drumheller
Equal with my love of dinosaurs, is my love of the paranormal. When I first heard about the stories and the folklore of The Rosedeer Hotel and the Last Chance Saloon in Wayne, a short drive out of the town of Drumheller, I grabbed my mum and my sister and we set off to grab dinner with some ghosts. When you pull up to the infamous establishment you are, unlike with most things in the area, struck by it’s historical charm. Built in 1913, the building looks almost untouched, and for the most part it is. Inside the Last Chance Saloon you will even find what looks like an empty picture frame on the wall, that is until you look closer and realize it’s framing a bullet hole from a bar brawl that broke out during the saloons hay days when the mines were still up and running. On the drive over I had read about some of the urban legends of the building, but not too much was reported. The most erie bit, being that the paranormal accounts have been so strong that the hotel had to close off the top two floors for safety reasons. Too many angry ghosts and wayward travellers I suppose.
The menus’s read “ask the staff about the ghosts if you must,” and the table had a little laugh. As we sat there deciding what to eat, I remember announcing to the table that I suddenly didn’t feel well, and that I felt like there was someone watching me from behind my right shoulder. It was a busy night in the saloon, it was a weekend in late September, and the one waitress was run off her feet, so we had no intensions of taking up her time about the ghosts. But the feeling of being watched was growing stronger and stronger, and after we placed our orders and she returned with our drinks, I politely asked if I could know more about the ghosts that resided here. To our tables absolute mix of horror and delight, our waitress told us about the main spirit that tended to terrorize patrons and staff in the saloon. A real rough wild west bad guy, who worked for the mob at the time. Guess what his job was - a watcher. GULP.
YUP, YUP, YUP. She explained his main job was to watch out for local law enforcement and warn the big bosses to bust up their criminal exploits in time. I guess they had some ghost hunters come out years ago and make contact and that’s how they know. They said to keep him appease and not causing too much trouble, the staff leaves him a glass of whiskey on his favourite table by the piano every night.
Explore the great outdoors
There is just so much landscape to get lost in. From the many canyons, to the Hoodoos, how do you decide what to see and how to see it? Bike the dinosaur trail if you want more of a work out, hike the badlands interpretive trail, or do a kayak on the Red Deer River. There are endless ways for you to spend the day outside in this other-worldly landscape. My favourite hike was in Horseshoe Canyon - but I will warn you - we saw a snake or two as the local wildlife is just what you’d expect from this wild, wild west town.
Sip and Savor: Drumheller’s Brewery Scene
I never thought of the words brewery and Drumheller in the same sentence until a few years ago when we came out for a quick family weekend, and we found ourselves smack dab in the middle of one of our new favourite breweries in Alberta. Valley Brewing is the go-to spot for craft beer enthusiasts, offering a range of brews that capture the spirit of the Badlands. I’m not much of a beer person at all, but even I went home with some Discovery Mixed Berry Ale. It’s such a fun way to unwind and relax after a long day of adventuring. Or start your day of adventuring, I don’t judge!
Uncover beyond the fossils in Drumheller
While my reasons for wandering into Drumheller the first time were singularly focused on the prehistoric, I can confidently say that they are no longer only reason I keep coming back to Drumheller. If I’ve learned anything from all my trips to the badlands, it’s this: Drumheller isn’t a destination; it’s an experience. One that is sure to be filled with hidden gems and secrets, more history than I can even begin to comprehend, and endless natural beauty. Oh and did I mention dinosaurs?
So, pack your bags, bring your sense of adventure, and get ready to explore the mysteries of Drumheller, Alberta. This is one destination where the journey is just as thrilling as the destination itself.
